DANGER ELECTRICAL SHOCK
Pinball machines have high voltages which can cause DANGER TO LIFE AND LIMB. TURN POWER OFF and UNPLUG PINBALL MACHINE prior to installation. Pinball machines are high voltage and can cause electrical shock.
SAFETY GLASSES are also recommended while working with or installing pinball parts.
Please follow these safety instructions as well as all installation instructions. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the pinball machine, accessory or other parts. Please see our Disclaimer for associated risks and responsibilities (Section 13 in our Terms of Service) prior to installation.
Images included in these instructions are of an installed prototype and may vary from your product slightly.
If you have questions or concerns regarding the proper installation of this part, please contact us for assistance.
When removing screws from the playfield, reinstall by first turning them counter-clockwise to match the original groove in order to respect the integrity of the playfield wood.
- Remove balls and lift playfield.
- Disconnect the molex power supply connector (blue wires, back of motor) and the motor switch Z-connector (green/white one side, green/brown on the other side). Disconnect the target bank switch wire harness z-connector (Black/White/Red/Blue one side.)
- Use a nut driver to remove the four screws holding on the motor assembly. Tilt up from the bank assembly and pull away from playfield. Careful, there is grease on the motor actuator shaft that connects with the recognizer bank.
- Remove the five screws, 2 on top and 3 on bottom, holding the target bank and carrier assembly. Again, there is grease in the motor shaft well, and likely along the edges of the bank.
- Using the same 1/4 nut driver you used to remove the playfield screws (or flathead bit), and the same socket from the last step, remove the screws and nuts from the bracket on one side of the carrier assembly. Loosen the other side slightly. The target carrier will slide right out, to the side you removed the bracket from.
- Do the same on the nuts and Phillips screws for the three targets on your factory target bank. Keep the screws through the targets and just lift them out with the plastic wire guard in all one piece.
- Place the targets into the new bank. Attach the nuts to hold them in place, but leave slightly loose. Make note of the spacing of the targets. The foam squares need to go right behind the rivet on the target faces. I found it easiest to put the squares in place with the targets tightened down so I could make sure they were spaced appropriately, but your mileage may vary. It may be easier for you to attach, make a note of where the squares need to go, then loosen them up a good bit...just don't want to remove the foam four or five times. :)
When attached, the plastic guard should be pretty close or touching the motor channel, there should be clearance between the top of the targets and the bank itself. Targets should move freely without rubbing each other or the bank.
- (Optional, but recommended) The original target bank was lubricated with some kind of grease on the edges of the bank where it meets the metal bracket and the carrier. The first unit I tested, I did not use the grease. I did not notice any problems. HOWEVER, if you want to go "factory" with it, and potentially extend the life of the target bank and carrier, you can re-apply your plastic-and-metal-friendly lubricant of choice along the lower edge of the target bank and the lift channel that the motor armature goes into. I'm using white lithium grease on mine. No doubt there is much debate about proper choice of lubricant here as there is about wax to use on your playfield. If you're going to proceed to do this, I also recommend cleaning off the motor armature with alcohol to remove the old lubricant and maybe the sides of the bracket with a q-tip.
- Place the target bank back into the slide carrier and reattach the brackets. Don't overtighten the screws and nuts. If there is ANY binding up or down, it's too tight. Remember, it's a guide for the target bank, nothing more. The screws and nuts may even be able to be rotated by hand.
- Take the motor assembly, and clean the top area and the bottom plate by the adjustment screws with alcohol. With the motor pointing up towards you and the armature pointing down, you will want the wires for the LED strips to come out the right side. Remove the adhesive backer from each strip, and place the red strip at the top right up 90 degress to where the screws go. The switch wires may be in front of it, don't worry, plenty of light to go around. The blue strip goes down right smack in the middle of the end of the bracket where the adjustment screws are that set the bank height for when it's down. Press them down evenly and don't leave any gaps or bends.
(For PIG 2 INSTALLATION ONLY, proceed to step 11; otherwise, skip to step 12)
You're going to need about 30" of 2-conductor wire (like the kind you can pull apart at the ends to have two isolated connections) or 60" of single conductor wire, and a small diode.
This is a good time to make the necessary modification to use the motor switch with the PIG2 since your bank and motor are already out. MUCH easier to do it now then when it's back in the game.
If you're looking at the assembly as if the motor was mounted in the playfield, the switch is on the end of the bracket, it pokes out the furthest point from the underside of the playfield.
There are three lugs on this switch, two are used for switch matrix connections, a third only has one end of the diode.
You're going to cut away the insulation on the middle lug, so you can attach your sensor wires for the PIG2. DO NOT USE ALLIGATOR CLIPS IN THIS AREA. Use of alligator clips creates the potential for blown fuses or damage to the machine. Instead, attach using a solder, clean out the lug, bend your sensor wires into the hole with the other wires, and then resolder everything.**PIG 2 NOTE** IF YOU ARE CONNECTING TO THE PIG2, THE DEFAULT CONFIGURATION IS TO USE IN4. IF YOU WANT TO USE A DIFFERENT INPUT AND OUTPUT YOU MUST MODIFY THE CONFIGURATION FILE BEFORE INCORPORATING IT WITH YOUR OTHER MOD CONFIGS!
Strip away the heatshrink. Solder one wire each to the middle and rightmost terminal. The wire that is connected to the terminal with ONE WIRE, BROWN WITH A GREEN STRIPE, ON THE RIGHT, will need to have a diode connected in-line with it before it goes into the PIG2 input block. The diode will be soldered to the lead wire such that the banded side (the one with the white stripe) is AWAY from the switch, and TOWARDS the PIG2! It doesn't matter which side of the input block the wires go into.
WE recommend using heatshrink to cover the joint between the diode and the wire on the PIG2 end, just to be safe. Any 1N4001->4007 diode is perfectly fine, so don't worry if you don't have a 4001 specifically on hand.
With the bank mounted and LED strips attached, you'll need to re-assemble in reverse. Put the target bank assembly back on first. Make sure you get it aligned properly, there's a good bit
of play on those bottom three screws to accomodate adjustment, so make sure the bank doesn't scrape the sides of the playfield cutout when it's going up/down. Reattach the motor after that,
remember you'll have to pull the target bank out towards you so the armature of the motor goes into the lift channel.
Once the armature is positioned correctly, it's easy to realign the screw holes for the motor bank and secure it back in place. Reconnect the motor power, the motor switch Z-connector, and the target bank z-connector.
Once everything is secured back, in the game, you can clip the blue flasher strip's alligator clips to the flasher above the motor assembly. Clip one on the un-insulated lug that sticks out to the side, clip the other one to the "nipple" on the underside of the lamp socket.
The one on the bottom may rotate a little, it's okay if it touches the bottom of the flasher socket, it's the same. I have mine mounted horizontally against the bottom of the socket. Has never come off accidentally.
Run the RED LED's wires with the molex connector along the nearest harness to the bottom right of the playfield. Ziptie where necessary to keep the wire flush to the harness.
Almost all of my mods come off the bottom right side of the playfield on Tron, yours may be different, but I have all my mod wires zip tied together at that point, really cleaned things upunder there. :) Otherwise, if you zip tie at the point closest to the bottom right after following the harness, you should have plenty of length left to connect to the molex power connector, a FTS-8 splitter board or splitter harness, or the PIG2 if you're going that route and it's mounted on the right side of the machine. Adjust as necessary if you have your PIG2 or power mounted elsewhere....assuming that your PIG2/FTs-8/empty power connection are at the front right side of the cabinet. Plug in the molex to the power connection, splitter, or PIG2.
**PIG 2 NOTE** IF YOU ARE CONNECTING TO THE PIG2, THE DEFAULT CONFIGURATION IS TO USE OUT4. IF YOU WANT TO USE A DIFFERENT INPUT AND OUTPUT YOU MUST MODIFY THE CONFIGURATION FILE BEFORE INCORPORATING IT WITH YOUR OTHER MOD CONFIGS!
**PIG2 ONLY** Copy the configuration info into your PIG.TXT, make any changes necessary to the IN/OUT ports needed, and update your SD card.
Put the playfield down, CAREFULLY slide the playfield back into position, watch to make sure none of your newly installed wires are too short and not pulling on the molex connector or the PIG2 input block. We have tried to make sure you have enough wire this really shouldn't be an issue, but better safe than sorry! One tip is to have splitter and PIG2 are mounted right up on the front right side of the cabinet, so there should be plenty of slack for most people, and probably a LOT of slack if your stuff is mounted further back!
Turn on the game and enjoy!
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